Until then,
1,000,000 Miles strong
Sunday, November 30, 2008
Mile 236,527:What happens when I can't work on my jeep.
I got bored at work while thinking about my lift kit, the result is a rough sketch of my jeep doing some rock crawling.
Until then,
1,000,000 Miles strong
Until then,
1,000,000 Miles strong
Mile 236,417: General update
Today I replaced my center caps on my front wheels, one had fallen off and another was on its way. I'm glad I got those replaced, now I have four wheels with centercaps. It snowed yesterday, so I went out and played in the snow. My friend brought their truck along too, and I can honestly say that A/T tires make a huge difference in performance over my baja tires. I was kinda sold on how well they worked before, but now I'm completely sold on it now. Unfortunately, playing in the snow can have its detrimental effects too. I took a nail in one of my tires (got it fixed for free at Discount tire co.) and bent my front license plate holder pretty bad after driving off a ledge that was a little too big for my XJ. The slope itself wasn't a problem, but it didn't round out at the bottom like I thought it would; there was a curb there instead (I have NO idea why, the road doesn't even go all the way through). I'll be able to salvage the front part that frames the plate, but the actual plate holder is bent up pretty bad and I'll have to get a new one of those.
I haven't been writing many blogs lately, I've been saving up my monies for a 3" lift kit. Come January, I should have quite a few more blogs to write, but I'll try to keep you guys updated on things between now and then.
Until then,
1,000,000 Miles strong
I haven't been writing many blogs lately, I've been saving up my monies for a 3" lift kit. Come January, I should have quite a few more blogs to write, but I'll try to keep you guys updated on things between now and then.
Until then,
1,000,000 Miles strong
Sunday, November 23, 2008
Mile 236,228: Transmission fluid refill (tutorial)
My transmission when I was whining unusually loud whenever I was in second gear, I also noticed some leakage coming from my transmission. IF YOU EVER HEAR ANY NOISE COMING FROM EITHER THE ENGINE COMPARTMENT OR DRIVETRAIN THAT IS NOT NORMAL, STOP IMMEDIATELY. Figure out what's wrong before you drive on it much further.
Note: unlike my tune-up thread, this one doesn't have as many pictures, my hands were pretty full.
How to: Add more transmission oil to your 5-speed manual transmission.
Difficulty: 2 wrenches out of five. Although this project doesn't require any special skills above operating a wrench, it does require some special equipment.
Grime factor: 2 rags out of five. There is some oil spillage involved, but my hands were clean enough I didn't really need too much hand cleaner.
Completion time: 10~15 minutes. The process itself doesn't take too long, but you have to do some slow pumping, and that chews up time.
Tools and parts needed:
Rags. I used two.
A buddy can come in handy to help you refill your siphon pump.
a level parking spot or a means to level out your vehicle.
anywhere from 1~4 quarts 80W100+ manual transmission oil, depending on whether you are doing a change or fill (I used two, I was in pretty bad condition)
Siphon pump for getting oil into transmission, costs about $5. (Pictured left, sprayer fluid on right is for scale. This is a 1 pint siphon pump)
Means to loosen the transmission nut, I have a modified 3/8" wrench piece, machined down to fit. I will refer to this as "t-fit"
Wrench to fit your t-fit (not pictured).
Skills needed:
Ability to operate wrench
Ability to operate siphon pump
Here is a picture of the bolt you will loosen, I took my jeep to the car wash (user-operated quarter kind) and cleaned off my underbody with some tire cleaner and then the power washer, followed by a rag wiping.
To begin, locate the FILL bolt for your transmission. One will be lower on the transmission and was the first one I found. THIS IS NOT THE ONE YOU WANT. If you loosen this one, it will empty out your transmission fluid. The bolt you are after to fill your transmission is higher up, about 2/3 of the way up the tranny (transmission) and I found mine located right above the tranny support strut, as pictured below.
It should be about an inch in diameter. Use your t-fit wrench on this to loosen it. It is a right hand bolt (righty tighty, lefty loosy), but is pretty tight and can take some muscle to loosen. Because of the way it is molded, your t-fit wrench could pop out, some pressure to the back of the wrench to keep it in place may be necessary. The bolt is about one inch long with a pretty fine thread, but once you have it broken loose, you should be able to loosen it by hand. You may want to keep your t-fit wrench on there to give you some grip, it can get pretty slippery.
Once remove the bolt (go ahead and take it all the way out, but be careful not to lose the washer that is on it.), reach inside the hole you just removed the bolt from. Be careful, the threads here can be sharp, so try not to turn your finger too much. Even though you can't fit your finger in there all the way, you should be able to feel if there is any oil on the parts in there (there should be) and if the oil is anywhere near the top. If you have been hearing any whining, it isn't.
Take the top off your transmission fluid (even though some of them come with that ketchup-style squirt top) and stick your siphon pump in, go ahead and go all the way to the bottom to make sure you pull as much fluid as possible. SLOWLY pull the fluid into the siphon. Pulling slow insures that you won't pull air, or if you pull air you won't pull as much. Once your pump is about an inch from being fully extended, pull it out of the oil and turn the tube so it is upright. Wipe it off as soon as possible (from the siphon itself towards the end of the tube) to minimize mess. Place the siphon tube into the fill-hole in the transmission. Push the tube in about as far as you can (the goal is to get beyond that inch of threads in there, remember those?) and slowly push the siphon back in, filling up your transmission. Repeat this process until your transmission starts to drip oil down the outside. You may not see it immediately. I didn't notice mine was dripping until some landed on my elbow, after it had already pooled on my support strut. Once it is full, replace the bolt, making sure to wipe any debris off the bolt as possible. As with all bolts and nuts, start the bolt by hand, tightening it as far as possible before using a wrench. The part may be slick, wiping everything off as much as possible helps. Tighten this bolt about as far as you can go, should be about 40 ft-lbs of force (or about as tight as you can go).
Congratulations! You have successfully added transmission fluid. Give everything a good look over to make sure that all of the parts have been put back in place. Go ahead and start it up and drive around a bit, noting any noises. If you are still hearing unusual noises, have someone who knows what they are doing (preferably a certified mechanic) take a look at your transmission.
Until then,
1,000,000 Miles strong
Note: unlike my tune-up thread, this one doesn't have as many pictures, my hands were pretty full.
How to: Add more transmission oil to your 5-speed manual transmission.
Difficulty: 2 wrenches out of five. Although this project doesn't require any special skills above operating a wrench, it does require some special equipment.
Grime factor: 2 rags out of five. There is some oil spillage involved, but my hands were clean enough I didn't really need too much hand cleaner.
Completion time: 10~15 minutes. The process itself doesn't take too long, but you have to do some slow pumping, and that chews up time.
Tools and parts needed:
Rags. I used two.
A buddy can come in handy to help you refill your siphon pump.
a level parking spot or a means to level out your vehicle.
anywhere from 1~4 quarts 80W100+ manual transmission oil, depending on whether you are doing a change or fill (I used two, I was in pretty bad condition)
Siphon pump for getting oil into transmission, costs about $5. (Pictured left, sprayer fluid on right is for scale. This is a 1 pint siphon pump)
Means to loosen the transmission nut, I have a modified 3/8" wrench piece, machined down to fit. I will refer to this as "t-fit"
Wrench to fit your t-fit (not pictured).
Skills needed:
Ability to operate wrench
Ability to operate siphon pump
Here is a picture of the bolt you will loosen, I took my jeep to the car wash (user-operated quarter kind) and cleaned off my underbody with some tire cleaner and then the power washer, followed by a rag wiping.
To begin, locate the FILL bolt for your transmission. One will be lower on the transmission and was the first one I found. THIS IS NOT THE ONE YOU WANT. If you loosen this one, it will empty out your transmission fluid. The bolt you are after to fill your transmission is higher up, about 2/3 of the way up the tranny (transmission) and I found mine located right above the tranny support strut, as pictured below.
It should be about an inch in diameter. Use your t-fit wrench on this to loosen it. It is a right hand bolt (righty tighty, lefty loosy), but is pretty tight and can take some muscle to loosen. Because of the way it is molded, your t-fit wrench could pop out, some pressure to the back of the wrench to keep it in place may be necessary. The bolt is about one inch long with a pretty fine thread, but once you have it broken loose, you should be able to loosen it by hand. You may want to keep your t-fit wrench on there to give you some grip, it can get pretty slippery.
Once remove the bolt (go ahead and take it all the way out, but be careful not to lose the washer that is on it.), reach inside the hole you just removed the bolt from. Be careful, the threads here can be sharp, so try not to turn your finger too much. Even though you can't fit your finger in there all the way, you should be able to feel if there is any oil on the parts in there (there should be) and if the oil is anywhere near the top. If you have been hearing any whining, it isn't.
Take the top off your transmission fluid (even though some of them come with that ketchup-style squirt top) and stick your siphon pump in, go ahead and go all the way to the bottom to make sure you pull as much fluid as possible. SLOWLY pull the fluid into the siphon. Pulling slow insures that you won't pull air, or if you pull air you won't pull as much. Once your pump is about an inch from being fully extended, pull it out of the oil and turn the tube so it is upright. Wipe it off as soon as possible (from the siphon itself towards the end of the tube) to minimize mess. Place the siphon tube into the fill-hole in the transmission. Push the tube in about as far as you can (the goal is to get beyond that inch of threads in there, remember those?) and slowly push the siphon back in, filling up your transmission. Repeat this process until your transmission starts to drip oil down the outside. You may not see it immediately. I didn't notice mine was dripping until some landed on my elbow, after it had already pooled on my support strut. Once it is full, replace the bolt, making sure to wipe any debris off the bolt as possible. As with all bolts and nuts, start the bolt by hand, tightening it as far as possible before using a wrench. The part may be slick, wiping everything off as much as possible helps. Tighten this bolt about as far as you can go, should be about 40 ft-lbs of force (or about as tight as you can go).
Congratulations! You have successfully added transmission fluid. Give everything a good look over to make sure that all of the parts have been put back in place. Go ahead and start it up and drive around a bit, noting any noises. If you are still hearing unusual noises, have someone who knows what they are doing (preferably a certified mechanic) take a look at your transmission.
Until then,
1,000,000 Miles strong
Thursday, November 20, 2008
Mile 236,060: Ignition tune-up (with guide!)
I had a problem where my jeep would jolt (just one big shake) when I was driving down the road around 40~50 mph. As it turns out, my ignition wires were arcing ( you can check and see if yours do this by parking in a DARK area and watching the top of the spark plugs for a spark.). So, I'm going to write up a guide on how to fix this problem.
Difficulty: 2 wrenches out of 5. Not the hardest repair in the world, but definitely a little more involved than an oil change.
Grime factor: 3 rags out of 5. My hands were pretty black after I was done and it took a good bit of cleaner to get the stuff off, hands are all clean now.
Completion time: Approximately 20 minutes
Tools and parts needed:
5/8" spark plug socket (as pictured)
ratchet wrench with extender (as pictured)
A good set of pliers (not needle nose)
new ignition wires (box set)
new spark plugs (in my jeep's case, six. You'll need one for each cylinder)
camera (optional, but if you forget the way the wires were arranged, it'll help quite a bit.)
Spark plug gap measuring tool. (they cost like a dollar)
Skills needed:
Ability to operate a ratchet wrench
Know how to check gaps on spark plugs
Here is a picture of my ignition wires & plugs (spark plugs) before the tune up:
Here is a picture of a spark plug (left) and ignition wire (right):
I start at the left end (I'll call this cylinder 1) and moved my way to the back (cylinder 6). Note: ONLY REMOVE ONE PLUG/WIRE ASSEMBLY AT A TIME! If you remove more than one, you could lose track of which wires hook up to which plug very quickly. This is bad. When you are replacing the ignition wires and spark plugs, try to keep parts organized. This will allow you to easily keep track of which wires and plugs you have already replaced. In this photo, the old wires are on the left along with the old spark plugs. The new wires are on the right. The pliers I used to help pull the plugs out are on the far left. (I kept the new spark plugs up off the ground in their boxes to help keep them clean.
To begin, remove the old ignition wire from both the cap (the black part all the wires are connected to) and the spark plug (the end on the engine block). Make sure when you remove the wires, that you pull them by the base of the plug, if you pull by the wire, you can separate the wire from the plug, making it very difficult to remove. When you remove the wire, make a note of the other wires it crosses over (this is how it's supposed to be) for when you put the new wire back in. Attempt to get it as close to the same as possible, this is where the camera comes in handy to take a picture of how it's set up to reference later.
Step 2: Remove the spark plug from the engine block. Note: if you had been running your car for any duration before the repair, you should let it cool off first, as these parts get very hot. Try not to drop any dirt or blow into the open hole from the spark plug as this leads directly into your cylinder. Once you remove the spark plug, set it down next to the old ignition wire. Here is a picture of my spark plug, ignition wire removed.
Get your new spark plug and check the gap to make sure it is correct. Spark plug gaps vary by plug and car models, so make sure you find out the correct gap. Place the new spark plug in the slot where the old spark plug was, as per your organizational method. Begin threading by hand. If the spark plug is too hard to reach, you can use the socket and extender (but not the ratchet itself!) to give yourself a little more reach. On my particular cherokee, plug #6 was difficult to reach. Make sure the plug is snug, but don't tighten it as far as you can.
Replace the ignition wire, making sure you use the wire that is closest in length to the old one (yes, they come in varying sizes). Remember how much force these took to get off? Keep that in mind when you put the new ones on, they should click into place. To check and see that the ignition wires are fully secured, gently pull the plug out. If it takes little to no force to disconnect it from either the cap or the spark plug, it was not installed correctly.
Repeat this process for all cylinders, the final wire will lead away from the cap. Repeat the same process as you did for the other cylinders, but note that you DO NOT need a spark plug for this connection, all you need is the wire. Once you have finished installing the new wires and spark plugs, check that you have installed all the new parts and haven't missed anything. The finished result should look like this (note that the new wires are darker in color and cleaner than the old ones):
Congratulations! You have completed an ignition tune up! Start up your engine and make sure that it runs smoothly. If you hear any unusual noises or hear that the engine isn't running correctly, shut down the engine immediately and double check your work.
Until then,
1,000,000 Miles strong
Difficulty: 2 wrenches out of 5. Not the hardest repair in the world, but definitely a little more involved than an oil change.
Grime factor: 3 rags out of 5. My hands were pretty black after I was done and it took a good bit of cleaner to get the stuff off, hands are all clean now.
Completion time: Approximately 20 minutes
Tools and parts needed:
5/8" spark plug socket (as pictured)
ratchet wrench with extender (as pictured)
A good set of pliers (not needle nose)
new ignition wires (box set)
new spark plugs (in my jeep's case, six. You'll need one for each cylinder)
camera (optional, but if you forget the way the wires were arranged, it'll help quite a bit.)
Spark plug gap measuring tool. (they cost like a dollar)
Skills needed:
Ability to operate a ratchet wrench
Know how to check gaps on spark plugs
Here is a picture of my ignition wires & plugs (spark plugs) before the tune up:
Here is a picture of a spark plug (left) and ignition wire (right):
I start at the left end (I'll call this cylinder 1) and moved my way to the back (cylinder 6). Note: ONLY REMOVE ONE PLUG/WIRE ASSEMBLY AT A TIME! If you remove more than one, you could lose track of which wires hook up to which plug very quickly. This is bad. When you are replacing the ignition wires and spark plugs, try to keep parts organized. This will allow you to easily keep track of which wires and plugs you have already replaced. In this photo, the old wires are on the left along with the old spark plugs. The new wires are on the right. The pliers I used to help pull the plugs out are on the far left. (I kept the new spark plugs up off the ground in their boxes to help keep them clean.
To begin, remove the old ignition wire from both the cap (the black part all the wires are connected to) and the spark plug (the end on the engine block). Make sure when you remove the wires, that you pull them by the base of the plug, if you pull by the wire, you can separate the wire from the plug, making it very difficult to remove. When you remove the wire, make a note of the other wires it crosses over (this is how it's supposed to be) for when you put the new wire back in. Attempt to get it as close to the same as possible, this is where the camera comes in handy to take a picture of how it's set up to reference later.
Step 2: Remove the spark plug from the engine block. Note: if you had been running your car for any duration before the repair, you should let it cool off first, as these parts get very hot. Try not to drop any dirt or blow into the open hole from the spark plug as this leads directly into your cylinder. Once you remove the spark plug, set it down next to the old ignition wire. Here is a picture of my spark plug, ignition wire removed.
Get your new spark plug and check the gap to make sure it is correct. Spark plug gaps vary by plug and car models, so make sure you find out the correct gap. Place the new spark plug in the slot where the old spark plug was, as per your organizational method. Begin threading by hand. If the spark plug is too hard to reach, you can use the socket and extender (but not the ratchet itself!) to give yourself a little more reach. On my particular cherokee, plug #6 was difficult to reach. Make sure the plug is snug, but don't tighten it as far as you can.
Replace the ignition wire, making sure you use the wire that is closest in length to the old one (yes, they come in varying sizes). Remember how much force these took to get off? Keep that in mind when you put the new ones on, they should click into place. To check and see that the ignition wires are fully secured, gently pull the plug out. If it takes little to no force to disconnect it from either the cap or the spark plug, it was not installed correctly.
Repeat this process for all cylinders, the final wire will lead away from the cap. Repeat the same process as you did for the other cylinders, but note that you DO NOT need a spark plug for this connection, all you need is the wire. Once you have finished installing the new wires and spark plugs, check that you have installed all the new parts and haven't missed anything. The finished result should look like this (note that the new wires are darker in color and cleaner than the old ones):
Congratulations! You have completed an ignition tune up! Start up your engine and make sure that it runs smoothly. If you hear any unusual noises or hear that the engine isn't running correctly, shut down the engine immediately and double check your work.
Until then,
1,000,000 Miles strong
Wednesday, November 19, 2008
Mile 236,001
Drove home today, rolled over 236,000 miles on the way! However, I failed to get a picture of it right as it rolled over (I'll make sure I catch 250,000.)
Here's a picture of my jeep looking awesome:
Until then,
1,000,000 Miles strong
Here's a picture of my jeep looking awesome:
Until then,
1,000,000 Miles strong
Monday, November 17, 2008
Jeep log: 235947 miles
So I took my jeep out in a dark field tonight after work, as it turns out... I have a HUGE ignition arcing problem on cylinders (front to back) 1, 3, and 4. They were arcing almost constantly. I'm going to get the tune up kit tomorrow night (busy jeep night for me) and do that asap. I'll also try and get some pictures of me doing a makeshift RTI score going. I know my score is 682, but I didn't provide any decent pictures of me actually doing the test.
Until then,
1,000,000 Miles strong
Until then,
1,000,000 Miles strong
Sunday, November 16, 2008
Just occurred to me...you don't have a picture of the jeep in question
Well, here's a picture of the oh-so famous jeep cherokee
Jeep Log: 235905 miles
New fan clutch today. In the process of installing it though, My dad (being the idiot that pushes too hard that he is) broke the fan shroud because he wouldn't move the radiator out by about a 1/2 inch to put it back in. The actual replacement fan clutch had about 1/4 inch more on the front of it than the old one did, making it just a little too big to just slide on much in the same way the old one slid out. So this leaves something else for me to fix now....The fan shroud. Good news is that after I get this fixed, I only have a few other small things to fix. One of which is a new steering pump, but I'll get to that eventually. I started looking at woofers and amps the other day, and it looks like the whole assembly is going to cost me around $400, but I want a custom box so I can keep all my storage space...so that'd bump me up around $500. We'll see how that goes.
1,000,000 miles strong.
1,000,000 miles strong.
Jeep Log: 235792 Miles
Many fixes today! I got some of those really annoying things fixed that I've been meaning to get around to.
Things fixed:
Headlight hood (driver front)
New driver's side fog light
Driver's seatbelt now works.
Left Passenger seat now has a window crank.
New spare tire bolt (where is that fuckin squeak coming from?)
New shifter boot
New passenger side mirror (now points in the proper direction and doesn't wiggle)
Got a lug wrench that actually fits my lugs (I call it a fix)
I noticed installing the shifter boot made the inside quite a bit quieter. Is nice. The salvage yard was pretty interesting to say the least. Pretty much every cherokee has the same problem I do with the rear sprayer. The only difference is some people have approached it differently. One car we saw (driver is/was a skater punk) had a sticker next to it that had the woman's bathroom symbol on it. Saw a lot of cherokees there, only one with red interior; and it was missing the driver's seat, but that's not a very big deal. I got the seatbelt I needed. I can honestly say I've put my blood and sweat into this car, I actually bled while trying to install one of the parts when the wrench sprung free and scraped my hand up a little bit.
With this, interior restoration is pretty much complete. The only things left to do (and these are more pet peeve things than anything) are listed below:
Interior:
Woofer
New front passenger seatbelt
Find the spare tire squeak.
New emergency jack (this one is kinda locked up, I consider it interior because it's under the back seat.)
First aid kit (yeah.....)
Driver's side mirror (it's starting to come loose now too)
Cup holder solution?
Exterior:
PAINT JOB!
Roof rack
Roof lights/exterior lights (10 total will be added)
Xenon bulbs for front lights.
New back bumper
New wheels
Some fancy new tires (like real snow tires type of thing)
Lights under neath?*
Drivetrain/performance:
New fan clutch (Hayes clutch is going out)
New tranny (I think it's taking a shit on me....again)
So yeah, that's pretty much the summary of what's left. It's definitely getting there. After I get the woofer, there's pretty much going to be one massive save up until I can get the outside painted. I've got high hopes for this jeep. I'm kinda worried about this tranny thing, I think my transmission is going out...again...and those are expensive.
*So about these lights, I'm thinking of rigging it up in such a way that when the doors are open, some lights come on under neath that light up the ground, could be good when you're four wheeling at night. Any second opinions on this idea?
Things fixed:
Headlight hood (driver front)
New driver's side fog light
Driver's seatbelt now works.
Left Passenger seat now has a window crank.
New spare tire bolt (where is that fuckin squeak coming from?)
New shifter boot
New passenger side mirror (now points in the proper direction and doesn't wiggle)
Got a lug wrench that actually fits my lugs (I call it a fix)
I noticed installing the shifter boot made the inside quite a bit quieter. Is nice. The salvage yard was pretty interesting to say the least. Pretty much every cherokee has the same problem I do with the rear sprayer. The only difference is some people have approached it differently. One car we saw (driver is/was a skater punk) had a sticker next to it that had the woman's bathroom symbol on it. Saw a lot of cherokees there, only one with red interior; and it was missing the driver's seat, but that's not a very big deal. I got the seatbelt I needed. I can honestly say I've put my blood and sweat into this car, I actually bled while trying to install one of the parts when the wrench sprung free and scraped my hand up a little bit.
With this, interior restoration is pretty much complete. The only things left to do (and these are more pet peeve things than anything) are listed below:
Interior:
Woofer
New front passenger seatbelt
Find the spare tire squeak.
New emergency jack (this one is kinda locked up, I consider it interior because it's under the back seat.)
First aid kit (yeah.....)
Driver's side mirror (it's starting to come loose now too)
Cup holder solution?
Exterior:
PAINT JOB!
Roof rack
Roof lights/exterior lights (10 total will be added)
Xenon bulbs for front lights.
New back bumper
New wheels
Some fancy new tires (like real snow tires type of thing)
Lights under neath?*
Drivetrain/performance:
New fan clutch (Hayes clutch is going out)
New tranny (I think it's taking a shit on me....again)
So yeah, that's pretty much the summary of what's left. It's definitely getting there. After I get the woofer, there's pretty much going to be one massive save up until I can get the outside painted. I've got high hopes for this jeep. I'm kinda worried about this tranny thing, I think my transmission is going out...again...and those are expensive.
*So about these lights, I'm thinking of rigging it up in such a way that when the doors are open, some lights come on under neath that light up the ground, could be good when you're four wheeling at night. Any second opinions on this idea?
Adventures of the Werewolf Killer, prologue
Well, because it is my most valuable possession, I am going to start writing a blog about my dearest 1987 Jeep Cherokee Pioneer (with the winter kit).
After today, I'm going to be keeping track of my ventures in miles, this is just square one. I went to Mag-Co (my trusted repair shop) for a second opinion about a sound my engine is making. As it turns out, my coolant fan's clutch is locking up. Hopefully, I'm going to fix this tomorrow with the pops. As for my audio system, it turns out that my speakers are actually wiggling the door pieces off their cheap little plastic ratchet bolts. I'm going to see if I can use some removable adhesive to hold it in place and get rid of the buzz. If it's removable, I should still be able to get to my speakers if I need.
This weekend, I'm going to try to hit up the salvage yard for some parts I need on it. My passenger mirror broke so I need a new one of those, I need a new driver's seat belt, some sort of spare tire carrier and cover, and a new crank for my PL (passenger left) window crank. Also if I can find it, I'd like to get a commander visor (self-dubbed name for those solid visor pieces that go over the windshield) and some sort of roof storage device. Some new wheels would be sick too, but we'll see how that plays out.
Oh, quick explanation on "werewolf killer."
My Jeep is silver and slow.
Silver bullets are also silver and fast (duh).
Silver bullets kill werewolves.
Cars kill animals every now and then.
So, in theory, a silver car should be able to kill a werewolf if the werewolf were unwittingly crossing the street in front of said car and collided with it.
Hence, my Jeep is a theoretical werewolf killer.
Yeah, I know.... L....O....L.
After today, I'm going to be keeping track of my ventures in miles, this is just square one. I went to Mag-Co (my trusted repair shop) for a second opinion about a sound my engine is making. As it turns out, my coolant fan's clutch is locking up. Hopefully, I'm going to fix this tomorrow with the pops. As for my audio system, it turns out that my speakers are actually wiggling the door pieces off their cheap little plastic ratchet bolts. I'm going to see if I can use some removable adhesive to hold it in place and get rid of the buzz. If it's removable, I should still be able to get to my speakers if I need.
This weekend, I'm going to try to hit up the salvage yard for some parts I need on it. My passenger mirror broke so I need a new one of those, I need a new driver's seat belt, some sort of spare tire carrier and cover, and a new crank for my PL (passenger left) window crank. Also if I can find it, I'd like to get a commander visor (self-dubbed name for those solid visor pieces that go over the windshield) and some sort of roof storage device. Some new wheels would be sick too, but we'll see how that plays out.
Oh, quick explanation on "werewolf killer."
My Jeep is silver and slow.
Silver bullets are also silver and fast (duh).
Silver bullets kill werewolves.
Cars kill animals every now and then.
So, in theory, a silver car should be able to kill a werewolf if the werewolf were unwittingly crossing the street in front of said car and collided with it.
Hence, my Jeep is a theoretical werewolf killer.
Yeah, I know.... L....O....L.
Jeep To-Do
Jeep Fixed/To fix.
It's a silver 1987 Jeep Cherokee Pioneer, 240k miles. My main problem with this vehicle is it's in disrepair. When I first got it, it was a nightmare. Ever since I got my license and started driving it, I have been working my ASS off to get everything in prime working condition. I have decided to post an UPDATED list of upgrades and repairs I have performed since I first acquired this vehicle:
-New tires
-New front brake calipers, left and right.
-Fixed a spare tire issue (used to come loose and squeak)
-Fixed corrosion hole in passenger right floor
-Laid dynamat (soundproofing flooring)
-New speakers (Infiniti tweeter/woofer combinations)
-Fixed back seat (back used to be broken, couldn't put it up)
-New battery
-Fixed driver door lock (didn't work from outside)
-Removed 3 (yeah, i know) wasp hives.
-New wiper blades front and back
-Fixed back wiper blade
-Back hatch interior panel is no longer falling off
-New front bumper
-Tightened steering wheel (you used to be able to move the steering wheel vertically and horizontally about an inch in every direction, now you can't).
-Fixed window washer sprayer pump
-New tie rod (Pulled right HARD).
-New brakes
-Fixed a hose that wouldn't stay attached (air intake filter)
-Fixed brake lights (bad connection)
-Replaced fuses for signal lights (does this one count?)
-Fixed a loose window trim, cuts down on window noise (I really do need a new one...)
-New floormats
-New battery terminals
-New starter relay
-Headlight alignment fix
-New spare tire
TO DO:
-Coolant fan clutch
-New serpentine belt
-Full body re-finish (paint job, body work, trim repair)
-Fix passenger mirror (completely borked)
-Woofer (still deciding on this one, it's like $700)
-Spare tire cover
-New windshield
-New power steering pump
-Fix speaker buzz
I still want to restore it to 100%. I know this seems like a daunting task, but I want this thing to be a vehicle to make jeep owners proud.
Introduction
It's a silver 1987 Jeep Cherokee Pioneer, 235k miles. My main problem with this vehicle is it's in disrepair. When I first got it, it was a nightmare. Ever since I got my license and started driving it, I have been working my ASS off to get everything in prime working condition. I have decided to post a list of upgrades and repairs I have performed since I first acquired this vehicle:
-New tires
-New front brake calipers, left and right.
-Fixed a spare tire issue (used to come loose and squeak)
-Fixed corrosion hole in passenger right floor
-Laid dynamat (soundproofing flooring)
-New speakers (Infiniti tweeter/woofer combinations)
-Fixed back seat (back used to be broken, couldn't put it up)
-New battery
-Fixed driver door lock (didn't work from outside)
-Removed 3 (yeah, i know) wasp hives.
-New wiper blades front and back
-Fixed back wiper blade
-Back hatch interior panel is no longer falling off
-New front bumper
Edit: forgot one
-Tightened steering wheel (you used to be able to move the steering wheel vertically and horizontally about an inch in every direction, now you can't).
I still want to restore it to 100%. I know this seems like a daunting task, but I want this thing to be a vehicle to make jeep owners proud.
-New tires
-New front brake calipers, left and right.
-Fixed a spare tire issue (used to come loose and squeak)
-Fixed corrosion hole in passenger right floor
-Laid dynamat (soundproofing flooring)
-New speakers (Infiniti tweeter/woofer combinations)
-Fixed back seat (back used to be broken, couldn't put it up)
-New battery
-Fixed driver door lock (didn't work from outside)
-Removed 3 (yeah, i know) wasp hives.
-New wiper blades front and back
-Fixed back wiper blade
-Back hatch interior panel is no longer falling off
-New front bumper
Edit: forgot one
-Tightened steering wheel (you used to be able to move the steering wheel vertically and horizontally about an inch in every direction, now you can't).
I still want to restore it to 100%. I know this seems like a daunting task, but I want this thing to be a vehicle to make jeep owners proud.
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